This is the 3rd and last article of the C-More Care and Feeding series. You might also like the first article on adjusting and zero’ing the scope, and the second article on the lens, diode, and battery/battery cover.
This last one is somewhat controversial. User beware!
Fixing Wandering Windage
Out of the last 7 C-Mores that I’ve owned, 5 of them have displayed a behavior that I’ve come to term “Wandering Windage”. The name is a little deceptive, as it sounds like the windage adjustment moves randomly back and forth. That’s not the case. If you’re seeing that, you have some other issue – troubleshooting accordingly!
In “Wandering Windage”, the windage screw moves under recoil. Remember in the first article, I told you that the windage lock screw isn’t that effective? Regardless of how tight you get that sucker, it won’t stop this issue. It’s more specific than just moving, though. It moves “righty tighty”, so the gun’s impact moves to the right consistently, as well. You can even see it happen – make a mark on the scope body where the screw slot is lined up, and you can see that it’s moved, sometimes after just a few shots. Luckily, the adjustment is relatively repeatable – you can line the slot back up with the mark, and pretty much be pretty close to where you were, give or take a little bit. That’s good in an emergency, but sucks if that next stage requires precision.
This sort of symptom is one of the reasons why I shoot a group to check zero at every practice!
I have an expedient fix for this situation, but before we go any further, let’s make something absolutely clear. C-More Systems doesn’t approve of this fix (or so I’ve been told) – there’s a chance that they may not be willing to fix your scope if you send it back to them after misapplying this fix (or they’re charge you a good chunk of change for the repair). Also, if you do this wrong, you could lock up the windage adjustment on your scope, necessitating a repair, one way or the other. C-More will repair a scope for you that has this issue, so it’s not required to take the action I’m about to describe. Use this entirely at your own risk! If you screw it up, don’t blame me!
Got it? Ok, so with that kind of caveat, why do it, then? What if you’re at a big match, and notice this issue – especially if there isn’t a vendor there that you can spend a cool $180+ on a new scope with to finish the match? Or, you notice it, say, 3 days before the big match, and have no time to get a new scope or have C-More turn it around? I’ve done this fix to all 5 scopes I’ve had that have displayed this problem, and have not yet had a problem with it (knock on wood). Historically speaking, the 5 scopes were the most recent 5 I’ve owned. Right now, I’m a bit tuned to expect it right out of the box, based on my experience. I might just be lucky, though. But, rather than have to send 5 different scopes back to C-More for repair, it seemed easier to just do it myself..
Also, I’ve heard reports that the LimCat Glare Shield will cause zero to wander, but I’ve never seen that. If the Glare Shield caused this problem, it wouldn’t stop happening after applying the fix below – and it’s stopped for me every single time.
Ok, the fix… Take the scope off the mount and turn it over. You’ll want to identify the windage adjustment screw. It’s pointed out in the image here to the right. You don’t want to touch the other screw or the guide (the third object on the other end of the windage adjustment block).
Now, adjust the windage screw two FULL turns in one direction or the other, and remember which direction you went. Let’s go Left first – so turn the windage screw counter clockwise two full turns. This will take the block mostly to one side of it’s adjustment range (there’s at least four full turns of adjustment in each direction). Now, very carefully, place a small drop of Blue LocTite (aka LocTite 242) on the side of the windage adjustment screw that’s longest – that is, the side with the most thread exposed, opposite the side of the scope that the windage adjustment block is now on (see picture for the next step).
Now, turn the windage adjustment screw FOUR full turns in the opposite direction. We originally went left, so now we go right – so, turn the windage adjustment screw clockwise four full turns. That takes the windage adjustment block back past center (two turns) to the same distance in the opposite direction that we adjusted it the first time. Place another small drop of Blue LocTite on the most exposed side of the windage adjustment screw, opposite of the side you applied the LocTite to the first time.
Finally, adjust the windage adjustment screw back to center again, two full turns in the original direction. We went left first, so turn the windage adjustment screw counter-clockwise two full turns to get it back to center. Now, clean up any excess LocTite, remount the scope (remember to use a good amount of Blue LocTite on the mounting screws) and wait overnight to do anything with it. This will give the LocTite a chance to set up. You’ll need to re-zero the scope first thing upon your next trip to the range.
What we’ve done is to basically get a little bit of Blue LocTite into the windage adjustment threads in the adjustment block. This provides enough resistance to prevent the scope from moving under recoil, but (if you didn’t go overboard with the LocTite) still allow the scope to be adjusted normally.